This isn’t actually as wintry as it sounds. Yes, it is essentially boiled meat, and yes it contains root vegetables, but the broth is so light, and the essential cornichons that accompany it are so sharp, that it easily avoids crossing over into the stew/braise category.

The important thing with a pot au feu is, whatever you do, don’t let it boil. Once the meat is ticking over only the smallest of bubbles should occasionally break the surface, like a baby’s fart in the bath. This way you keep the broth totally clear and pure.

*****

Serves 8
An ox tongue
250g whole piece of smoked bacon
2 ham hocks
About 400g beef flank/skirt
A whole head of garlic, cut in half horizontally
Bay, thyme, and parsley stalks
Peppercorns
4 large sausages (uncooked and smoked if you can find any)
4 small turnips
4 carrots/8 baby carrots
2 onions
A cabbage, cut into 8, with root still attached
Salt and pepper

– In a large pan of lightly salted water, bring the tongue, bacon, ham hocks and beef flank to almost a boil. Skim off all the scuzz that rises to the top, lower the heat and add the garlic, the herbs, and a small palmful of peppercorns. Cook partially covered for 3-4 hours, taking care not to boil. Every now and then skim the scum.

– Peel and halve the turnips, peel and quarter the onions (leaving the root), and halve the carrots. Add these to the pot along with the sausages and cabbage and cook for a further 30 minutes.

– Cool for a while, then remove the meat. Carefully peel the tongue, and trim the bit of connective muscle, which is rather gelatinous and not ideal for these purposes. Carve the meat, discarding any excess fat and skin, and arrange on plates with the vegetables and a spoonful of broth. Serve with cornichons and chunks of baguette.