I spent the weekend in Aberdeenshire, where I met a man whose name was John. John had recently started smoking black puddings fat with hazelnuts and port, and very kindly gave me some to take back south. It is stupendous – I recommend you get in touch.

Monkfish with smoked black pudding and squash puree

Serves 2

A small butternut squash
15g butter
Smoked black pudding, cut into discs
300g monkfish tail, cut into 4 inch long pieces
Salt, pepper, lemon, oil

– Peel and deseed the squash, then cut into chunks. Bring to a boil in a pan of salted water and boil for 10 minutes or so, until soft. Blend with the butter and salt and pepper and set aside. If you’re going to dawdle then put in a 60C oven to keep warm.

– Heat a little oil in a frying pan and fry the pudding for a couple of minutes on each side until crisp. Set aside. Now fry the monkfish for 3 minutes on each side, seasoning with salt and pepper as you go. Serve with the black pudding, squash puree and a squeeze of lemon. I had mine with shredded and stir-fried Brussels sprouts. Nay bother.