I’ve been wanting to try and recreate this dish for a while. My hazy recollection of doing it at cookery school tells me that it was darn near one of the best things I’d ever put in my mouth. My own attempt was only partially successful, the goat’s cheese not being punchy enough. You need a big, farmy goat – one that honks like an entire stenchy herd and crumbles when prodded.

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Serves 1

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

A couple of tomatoes, roughly chopped

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

Sprig of rosemary

30g goat’s cheese

Salt, pepper, sugar, olive oil

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– Heat a little oil and gently fry the shallot until soft. Add the chopped tomatoes, vinegar and rosemary, and season with salt, pepper and sugar.

– Cover and simmer for 15 minutes, until the tomatoes are cooked and the liquid reduced. Preheat the grill to 220C.

– Put the tomatoes into a ramekin (removing the rosemary) and crumble the cheese on top. Season with a pinch of salt, a punch of pepper and a splash of olive oil, and pop under the grill for 10 minutes, until golden and bubbling.

– Serve with toast.